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Self-guided Tour
Begin south of town on Kansas 7/U.S. 73 highway and head North.
- As you drive North through Lansing, you will pass the Lansing Correctional
Facility. The land was purchased as the proposed site for the prison
in 1861, and construction was started in 1864. Located on the prison
grounds is an 1887 Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad freight
depot that the Lansing Historical Society is restoring into a museum.
The museum will display numerous Lansing Artifacts.
- Next you will pass Saint Mary College on your left. The Sisters
of Charity of Leavenworth, who operate the college, first came to Leavenworth
in 1858 and opened an orphanage and academy for young girls. In 1870
they moved their academy from a downtown location to its current 240-acre
campus. In 1923, the sisters founded Saint Mary College, now a coed,
four-year college.
- Across the highway and just North of Saint Mary College is the Dwight
D. Eisenhower Department of Veteran Affairs Medical Center, once
known as the "Old Soldiers' Home." In 1884 the 640-acre plot was selected
and two years later 17 buildings had been completed, including a dining
hall that could seat 1,200 minimum. An information center is located
at the gate.
The large building dominating the north end of the grounds is the
main hospital, built in 1933. The highlight of the VA is the Chapel
of the Veterans, built in 1893. This Gothic building with its
gargoyles and stained glass windows was called the "Believe It or
Not" Chapel when it was written up by Robert Ripley many years ago.
It was said to be the only house of worship where Protestant and Catholic
services could be conducted simultaneously under one roof. It is open
to visitors year round.
- Leaving the Veterans Affairs Medical Center and continuing North on
Highway 7-73 you will turn left on Spruce Street. Drive west on Spruce
until you reach Fifth Avenue - there is a museum sign to follow - turn
left and you will find the Carrol Mansion on your right at 1128
Fifth Avenue. Usually a host or hostess with be available to talk about
the beautiful 16-room mansion, built in 1867. The rooms are furnished
in mid-Victorian style with heirlooms of the era. One room, named the
Leavenworth History Room has pictures and articles on local distinguished
citizens.
The museum is open May through August, Monday through Saturday,
10:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m., Sunday, 1-4:30 p.m.; September through April,
Daily 1-4:30 p.m. Closed in January and major holidays. Admission
is charged. Call the museum at (913) 982-7759 for information or to
arrange a guided tour for groups.
- Across from the museum on southeast corner, is a large white house
that was the home of Judge David J. Brewer. Brewer was first
Supreme Court Justice appointed from Kansas.
- Drive back North on Fifth Avenue, cross Spruce Street to Seventh and
Olive streets where you'll see the former Home of Fred Harvey,
the famous restaurateur. Harvey established a network of restaurants,
first along the Santa Fe Railroad and later at stations on other lines.
The Harvey Houses, with waitresses known as Harvey Girls, set a standard
of excellence for food and fine service in a part of the country previously
know for its gastronomic tortures! Harvey also developed the dining
car system on on American railroads.
In 1883, he purchased the house for $25,000. At that time, it had
porches and gothic dormers on the exterior, and several fireplaces
inside. The National Fred Harvey Museum will be housed in his former
home in 2002.
- Return to Spruce Street, turn right and proceed to Broadway, the first
lighted intersection. Travel north on Broadway to see some of Leavenworth's
most beautiful and historic homes. (These are private residences not
open to the public.)
The Queen Anne baroque home at 714 S. Broadway was built
in 1885 and has been completely restored. It has 21 rooms, nine fireplaces,
five full baths, 44 stained glass windows and a completely finished
attic once used as a ballroom. In addition to the 9,000 square feet
of the main house there is a beautiful 2,750 square-foot coach house
in the back.
- Further north at 600 S. Broadway is a house built on nearly
five acres in 1876 of soft brick. Around the turn of the century, a
layer of stucco was applied over the brick.
- The home at 508 S. Broadway was built in 1868 in what was originally
called Italian Mediterranean style with a predominately vertical line.
In 1914, however, a new owner added the extensive porches with the heavy
stone work. The interior is highlighted by exposed wood beams, walnut
paneling and marble. The swimming pool was located in the large coach
house. Brigadier General "Fritz" Gruber, Commandant of Fort Leavenworth,
died here in 1941. He was the author of 'Artillery Song,' now known
as the Army song.
- At 410 S. Broadway you will find the Clark House, which was
built in 1869 by A.M. and F.M. Clark, early Leavenworth bankers. They
had a branch bank in Denver where they minted coins. That portion of
their operation was bought by the U.S. Government and became the Denver
Mint. The home was restored just a few years ago. Old photographs were
used to guide the reconstruction. The alcove on the north side of the
house remains where string ensembles would sit to entertain guests.
The Downtown
Area
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- Continue north on Broadway to Delaware Street take a right and then
immediately on the right hand side is The First City Museum,
743 Delaware, that currently houses a 1913 C.W. Parker Carousel in the
process of restoration. There is also what is thought to be the oldest
primitive carousel on display, as well as a mock-up of the Federal Penitentiary,
prison memorabilia and other frontier memorabilia and artifacts. The
museum is open Thursdays & Fridays Noon - 4:00 p.m., and Saturdays
10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
- Travel to Fifth Street where on the Northwest corner is the Performing
Arts Center, which was once a movie house. This building is listed
on the State Register of National Historic places and is currently the
home of the River City Community Players, a group that produces theatrical
events throughout the year.
- One block north on Fifth Street is City Hall. This building
was built in 1924 on the same site as the original City Hall, which
dated from the territorial days. On the lawn is a replica of the Statue
of Liberty, placed and dedicated by the Boys Scouts in 1950. Near its
base the City's time capsule was buried during the nation's bicentennial
celebration. It is scheduled to be unearthed in July 2076.
- At Fourth and Delaware, southwest corner, is the Mid America Bank
& Trust Co. This was once the location of the opera house, know
as Stockton Hall where, in December, 1859, Abraham Lincoln delivered
an address.
- Across the street, on the northwest corner, was the location of the
headquarters of Russell, Majors and Waddell, one of the largest
overland freight companies in western history. In 1855 it won the government
contract for hauling supplies to western forts and to the troops in
the field. One of its early employees was William F. "Buffalo Bill"
Cody, who began working when he was about 12 or 13 years old. (The
Cody farm was north of the fort in Salt Creek Valley.) Later Cody transferred
to the company's branch enterprise in St. Joseph, the Pony Express.
- Continue east on Delaware to the two blocks nearest the Missouri River.
This two-block area was the center of economic activity from 1854 to
1870. It is called the Leavenworth Landing, where thousands of
tons of supplies were once unloaded from the river boats. Pioneers by
the thousands came to Leavenworth by boat to buy their wagons and stock
from local merchants before heading west.
- The row of brick buildings on Delaware between Second and Third Streets
is a splendid example of the city's effort to preserve its past while
catering to the present.
River View
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- At the end of Delaware is the old Union Depot, now on the National
Register of Historic Places. The building was completed in 1884, but
because of contract disputes the first train rolled onto the tracks
in November 1888.
In 1984 V.B. Greenamyre gave the property to the city. Subsequently
voters approved a bond issue and ½ cent sales tax to finance
its renovation and expansion. In 1988 the depot was reopened as Leavenworth's
Riverfront Community and Convention Center, a handsome location
for meetings and conventions of up to 350 people. It also houses complete
health and recreational facilities.
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Just south of the Riverfront Community Center is the Leavenworth
Landing Park which runs for a third of a mile along the Missouri River.
The design of the park focuses on the role of Leavenworth as the "Gateway
to the West", with emphasis on the various modes of transportation
that led to the growth of Leavenworth as the major jumping off point
for settlers heading west. You may also begin the Wayside Walking
Tour at this location.
- North from the former Depot is North Esplanade Street where houses
numbered from 203-515. North Esplanade is designated as a historic district
on the National Register of Historic Places. As you travel north you
will see a vacant lot immediatly to your right, this is where the Planters
Hotel stood for 100 years, overlooking the river landing.
- The building at 203 North Esplanade supposedly once housed one of
our city's finest "palaces of pleasure" and was operated by a proud
madam. In the early days, approximately 120 saloons made up an important
part of Leavenworth's business community. Although before the Civil
War the population never officially rose above 8,000, the transient
population of those who came to work for a few days or weeks numbered
many thousands. These people stayed just long enough to get a "grub
stake" then moved on to homesteads, gold mines or to oblivion.
Fort Leavenworth
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- Continue west on Kiowa to Seventh Street, then turn right and proceed
north to the main gate of Fort Leavenworth.
The fort was established in 1827 by Colonel Henry Leavenworth and
a battalion of his 3rd Infantry Regiment. It is the oldest Fort west
of the Mississippi River that has never had a break in its active
duty status since the day of its founding. Today the fort is the home
of the U.S. Army Combined Arms Command.
Fort Leavenworth oversees training and combat development for the
Army and is the home of the U.S. Army Command and General Staff College.
- Traveling north on Grant Avenue into the fort will be the Buffalo
Soldier Monument located immediately after the second stop light
on the right. This magnificent monument was dedicated in July 1992.
This project was initiated by General Colin Powell. While stationed
at the fort, General Powell noted that only two short streets were named
after the 9th and 10th Cavalry Regiments comprised of black soldiers.
A fund-raising project was initiated in the late 1980's and, over one
million dollars later the monument was installed.
The Buffalo Soldiers proved their bravery and valor throughout the
Indian Wars. They won the respect of the Cheyenne warriors who named
them "Buffalo Soldiers," a badge of honor accepted and worn with pride.
This beautiful monument is indeed a fitting tribute to these black
cavalry troopers. At this time drive on through the parking lot and
turn left on Stimson and then right on Bundel Road to view the Berlin
Wall Monument located in the Grove of Regiments.
- Return to Grant to continue north to the next stop light which is
Reynolds Avenue and take a right to the Frontier Army Museum.
The museum is open Monday - Friday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.
to 4 p.m. and from 12 noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays and holidays (closed
Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years). Donations accepted.
You may follow the Fort's Historic Wayside Tour from this location.
- As you leave the main gate of the fort, turn right and drive west
on Metropolitan. This road will take you by the U.S. Federal Penitentiary.
Construction of the prison was begun in 1895 and was built with prison
labor. The first inmates were housed after its completion in 1906. Although
tours of the "Big House" are not available and visitors without official
business are not allowed on the grounds, there is an overlook down past
the prison on the right where you may stop and take pictures, as well
as see Buffalo that are cared for by inmates.
Homeward Bound
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